Whirlpool Washer F8 E1 (LF) Error: Video Guide to Fix No Water Fill

Note: This guide is based on verified repair protocols. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

You hear the washer humming, trying to fill, but no water is entering the drum. Suddenly, F8 E1 (or LF / LO FL on some displays) flashes. This code stands for “Long Fill”. The computer opened the valves for 8-10 minutes, but the water level sensor didn’t detect enough water.

The Reality Check: Before you order a new valve, you MUST check for clogged inlet screens and “siphoning” (water draining out as fast as it fills). These are free fixes that account for 50% of these errors.

🎥 The Repair Video

Watch this quick guide by Parts Dr to see how to replace the water inlet valve. But before you do what he does, follow our “Step 1” and “Step 2” below to rule out simple clogs.

🛒 Parts & Tools Checklist

If cleaning the screens doesn’t work, the solenoids on your valve are dead. You’ll need to swap it out.

• The Part (Water Inlet Valve):
  👉 Check Price for OEM Whirlpool Water Inlet Valve
  (Note: There are different valves for Hot and Cold. Usually, the Cold valve is the one that fails first.)
• Essential Tool (Channel Locks):
  Channel Lock Pliers (For stubborn hoses)
• Bucket:
  For catching water from the hoses.

🧹 Step 1: The “Free Fix” (Clean the Screens)

Safety First: Turn off the water taps at the wall.

The #1 cause of F8 E1 is simply sediment blocking the tiny mesh screens inside the valve.

1. Unscrew the hot and cold water hoses from the back of the washer (have a towel ready!).
2. Look inside the threaded ports on the washer. Do you see sand, calcium, or blue gunk?
3. The Fix: Use a Q-tip or a small pair of needle-nose pliers to gently pull out the mesh screens and rinse them under a faucet. Or, use a toothbrush to scrub them clean in place.
4. Reconnect and test. If F8 E1 disappears, you just saved $50!

👻 Step 2: The “Steve Check” (The Siphoning Ghost)

This is a secret killer of washer fills.

If your drain hose is shoved too far down into the wall standpipe, it creates a vacuum siphon. As fast as the washer fills, gravity sucks the water right out the drain. The washer never gets full, so it times out with F8 E1.

• Check your drain hose: Pull it out of the wall pipe.
• The Rule: Only about 4 to 6 inches of the hose should be inside the pipe. Use the U-shaped plastic form to hold it in place.
• If it was shoved down 2 feet, that was your problem!

🛠️ Step 3: Replace the Inlet Valve

If screens are clean and siphoning isn’t the issue, the solenoid coils on the valve have failed electrically.

1. Unplug the Washer.
2. Remove Top Panel: As shown in the video, remove the screws on the back to slide the top panel forward (or back, depending on model).
3. Locate Valve: It’s where the hoses connect.
4. Disconnect Wiring: Unplug the wire harnesses (take a photo first!).
5. Remove Valve: Remove the mounting screw and pull the valve out.
6. Install New Valve: Push the new valve in, secure it, and reconnect wires.

💧 Step 4: Test for Leaks

This is crucial. Water damage is worse than a broken washer.

1. Screw the supply hoses back onto the new valve. Hand-tighten, then give another 1/4 turn with pliers. Do not overtighten! (Plastic threads crack easily).
2. Turn on the water taps.
3. Watch for drips for 60 seconds before pushing the washer back.
4. Run a “Quick Wash” cycle to confirm the F8 E1 code is gone.

Need the valve? Get the OEM part here: